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Answers to Go with Susan Smith

Sunday, April 28, 2019

Q. I read a lot of novels set in England. I am confused about tea time. Sometimes it seems to be an aristocratic society garden party with tiny sandwiches and pastries. Other times, it seems to be a regular meal that people eat at the end of the work day. What is the history of English tea time?

A. I loved this question because it gave me an excuse to refer to a favorite title: “What Jane Austen Ate and Charles Dickens Knew” by Daniel Pool.

Pool writes: “By the 1800s, tea rivaled beer in popularity even among the lower classes – it was after all, a hot item to liven up the otherwise cold meals of the poor. The fact that the water was boiled made it safe to drink.

“Originally, tea was imported from China by the East India Company under a virtual monopoly. For a long time, it was so expensive that it was sometimes kept in locked boxes called tea caddies. Even when the import monopoly ended, import duties kept the price very high.”

Pool also discusses tea time in the context of ladies visiting great country houses. Beginning in the early 1870s, these women would change into their tea gowns for five o’clock tea in the drawing room.

In fact, these women changed clothes throughout the day. They needed a breakfast outfit, something fancier for lunch, the tea gown and formal wear for evening. If they went away for the weekend, they preferred not to wear the same outfit twice. For a three-day visit, they needed at least twelve dresses.

I found information that answered this question more directly online. The following information was found in “High Tea, Afternoon Tea, Elevenses: English Tea Times for Dummies.” It aired on the June 30, 2015 episode of “Salt,” a National Public Radio series.

Here are excerpts from the transcript of that episode: “‘The Salt’ is here to explain British social tea times. First up is elevenses… this late-morning work break involves a light snack – think muffins, scones or biscuits – and hot tea or coffee.

“The tradition of elevenses actually isn't that old, says Bruce Richardson, a historian who specializes in British tea. He speculates that the custom popped up in the 20th century, because there's no reference to the term in 1800s literature.

“Portugal's Catherine of Braganza is credited with introducing tea to England after marrying King Charles II in 1662. That got people curious about this new brew, but it wasn't until the 1800s, when tea prices dropped dramatically and it became affordable for everyone, that the culture of tea really took root.

“Afternoon tea – the kind of fancy-schmancy affair where we might spot Lady Mary of Downton Abbey – emerged as a social event sometime around the 1830s or 1840s, Richardson writes in ‘A Social History of Tea.’ And Anna Maria Russell, duchess of Bedford, led the pack.

“Back then, lunch for the upper crust was generally a light repast served at noon, and dinner occurred no earlier than 7:30 p.m. As legend has it, during one long, foodless afternoon, the duchess felt hunger pangs and ordered tea and snacks to her bedroom chamber. The refreshments did the trick, and Russell soon made this tea break a habit.

“The duchess' well-heeled friends began joining her in this post-lunch tea ritual, the story goes, and the practice spread in aristocratic circles. Though some historical references call this ritual 'low tea' – because the ladies would sit in low armchairs while sipping – afternoon tea was hardly a humble affair then. Nor is it today.

“Here's where you'll find those crustless finger sandwiches and an array of dainty scones, cakes, macaroons and other tempting nibbles. Afternoon tea is generally served around 3 or 4 p.m. these days.

“Richardson says it's a time to mind your manners. Place your napkin on your lap and stir gently. You don't actually want to appear hungry at this meal – propriety calls for restraint.

“Fortunately, the pressure is off when it comes to high tea. Despite its name, high tea actually originated with the lower classes. Dinner was served midday in the 1800s, but in practice, working stiffs didn't have the luxury of an afternoon lunch break, so they took tea right after work with heartier fare – like pies, meats and cheeses.

“Richardson says the name high tea probably evolved from the fact that this evening meal was served at proper dinner tables, rather than on couches or settees. Using the term 'high tea' when you really mean 'afternoon tea' is a dead giveaway you're American.

“But no matter what you request, Richardson stresses, ‘Keep those pinkies down! Americans in the Ritz's tea room stand out because they work so hard to keep their pinkies extended while holding their teacup.’”

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