Published: April 30, 2008 08:40 am         

Ste Michelle rieslings rise above the rest

The Wine Guys

We have been writing our wine column for about 22 years, and tasting and drinking wines for over 40 years each. Although an eye-opening experience in the world of wine is not impossible, it is still quite rare. That’s what happened at a recent tasting with Bob Bertheau, winemaker at Chateau Ste Michelle Winery in Washington state.

Chateau Ste Michelle, founded in 1934, is the largest winery in Washington and the 10th largest winery in the U.S., producing a little more than a million cases per year.

All of the winery’s grapes are grown on the desert-like, east side of the Cascade mountains that bisect Washington. The vines are irrigated using water from the Columbia River, which snakes through eastern Washington.

Chateau Ste Michelle makes its white wines in Woodinville, 15 miles northeast of Seattle. The red wines are made at the Canoe Ridge Estate in Eastern Washington.

In addition to producing Chateau Ste Michelle varietal wines from Washington sources, the winery has established collaborations with two prestigious international wine producers — Dr. Loosen and Antinori.

Ernst Loosen is the owner of Dr. Loosen Estate from the Mosel in Germany where his winery makes some of the finest rieslings in Germany. It was this collaboration — Bob Bertheau of Chateau Ste Michelle and Ernst Loosen of Dr. Loosen — that created the 2006 Eroica that shook the earth for us. Up until now many of the rieslings we tasted tended to produce monolithic, low acid, flabby wines that were often too sweet. Eroica is a wonderful wine that should be tried even by those who dislike rieslings. Our guess is that the haters will have a high conversion rate,.

Riesling is the largest single varietal produced by Chateau Ste Michelle — its production accounts for 30 percent of total U.S. bottles. Only the best lots go into Eroica, sourced mostly from cooler areas. According to Mr. Bertheau, grape thinning and canopy management are not as important with riesling as other vinifera varieties.

Tasting the Chateau Ste Michelle and Dr. Loosen Eroica Riesling 2006 ($24). is an eye opening experience. Ripe fruit and minerals are immediately apparent in the nose. We tasted peach and melon flavors and a wonderful mineral component with balanced, palate-cleansing acidity. Very elegant and not tiresome in the mouth. This wine has won an unprecedented six “Top 100 Wines of the Year” from Wine Spectator. You’ve got to try this wine, which would go extremely well with Asian food and seafood.

Chateau Ste Michelle’s collaboration with Antinori, has produced Col Solare another acclaimed winner, albeit a bit more pricey. Produced at a stand-alone winery atop Red Mountain, the five classic Bordeaux varieties and syrah, are planted in rows mimicking the rays of the sun. Winemakers from both wineries preside over all aspects of grape growing and wine making, producing a wine that artfully blends the two cultures.

The Col Solare Red Mountain Estate Columbia Valley 2004 ($78) — composed of 80 percent cabernet sauvignon, 17 percent merlot, 2 percent cabernet franc, and 1 percent petite verdot — offers up a nose and flavors of black cherry and plum fruit.

A very nice presence in the mouth, with some earthy notes, and cassis flavors in the finish. Overall, it is a sophisticated package that could easily age 5-7 years, and would be a great accompaniment for a celebratory dinner featuring beef or pork.

Our tasting also involved a number of other Chateau Ste Michelle wines that we liked. Most are very good values and are widely available at wine shops. These were our other favorites:

• Chateau Ste Michelle Sauvignon Blanc Horse Heaven Vineyard 2005 ($16.50). A distinctive Washington style with fresh fruit flavors, minerals and a bit of grassiness. A leaner food friendly style.

• Chateau Ste Michelle Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2005 ($15). Nice toasty oak nose from barrel fermentation with 30 percent new barrels. Wonderful tropical fruit flavors with a nice creamy finish.

• Chateau Ste Michelle Chardonnay Canoe Ridge Estate 2005 ($20). More complex than the regular bottling above. More fruit, with apple, peach, vanilla, lead pencil flavors and a nutty, toasty finish.

• Chateau Ste Michelle “Dry Rose” Nellie’s Garden 2006 ($15). Made from 96 percent syrah grapes. Lovely nose of strawberry preserves, with strawberry and red raspberry flavors Ripe fruit and good acidity make this a perfect summer sipper.

• Chateau Ste Michelle Merlot Canoe Ridge Estate 2005 ($25). Ninety percent merlot with 10 percent cabernet sauvignon, and 18 months in American and French oak. Black cherry and cassis notes with a slight dusty element that adds complexity. Mocha on the finish.

• Chateau Ste Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon Indian Wells 2004 ($16). From the warm Wahluke Slope AVA. Ripe fruit drives this wine with blackberry and cherry elements. Good length. A crowd pleaser at a good price.

     

• Click to discuss this story with other readers on our forums.