The Perfect Protein

By Jeff Walker
Features Editor

May 14, 2008 10:37 am

— Every now and again, on a sunny spring Sunday, I get this insatiable craving for pork. It happened again this past Mother’s Day.
It’s the same kind of feeling I used to have seated on the front pew midway through church sermons growing up. I imagined that honey spiraled ham browning slowly in the oven at that very moment, those thick, juicy pork chops ready to be thrown across a hot charcoal grill, or a meticulously tied pork tenderloin slowly smoking over indirect heat. I waited anxiously for the final “Amen” so the feast could begin.
As moral and religious culinary debates linger on about the eating of pork, this supposed “filthy animal” possibly not intended for human consumption, I remain naively hedonistic. I have long embraced the juicy, bold flavors of this other white meat in all its varieties: Brined, roasted, smoked, grilled and baked, ham, bacon, loin chops, Boston Butt and sausage. Pork is as versatile as it is affordable, a protein, for me, packed full of pleasure.
Needless to say, upon wishing my mother a Happy Mother’s Day over the phone Sunday, a pulled pork sandwich was in order.

Pulled Pork Sandwiches
For dry rub:
3 tablespoons coarsely ground black pepper
3 tablespoons (packed) dark brown sugar
3 tablespoons paprika
2 tablespoons coarse salt
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 untrimmed boneless pork shoulder halves (also known as Boston butt; about 6 pounds total)
For mop:
1 cup apple cider vinegar
1/2 cup water
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper
1 tablespoon coarse salt
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
8 pounds charcoal
6 cups hickory wood smoke chips, soaked in cold water at least 30
minutes
12 hamburger buns

Make dry rub: Mix first 5 ingredients in small bowl to blend. Place pork, fat side up, on work surface. Cut each piece lengthwise in half. Place on large baking sheet. Sprinkle dry rub all over pork; press into pork. Cover with plastic; refrigerate at least 2 hours.
Make mop: Mix first 6 ingredients in medium bowl. Cover and refrigerate.
Following manufacturer's instructions and using lump charcoal and 1/2 cup drained wood chips for smoker or 1 cup for barbecue, start fire and bring temperature of smoker or barbecue to 225 to 250°F. Place pork on rack in smoker or barbecue. Cover; cook until meat thermometer inserted into center of pork registers 165°F., turning pork and brushing with cold mop every 45 minutes, about 6 hours total. Add more charcoal as needed to maintain temperature and more drained wood chips (1/2 cup for smoker or 1 cup for barbecue with each addition) to maintain smoke level.
Transfer pork to clean rimmed baking sheet. Let stand until cool enough to handle. Shred into bite-size pieces. Mound on platter. Pour any juices from sheet over pork. Divide pork among bottoms of buns. Drizzle lightly with barbecue sauce. Top with coleslaw. Cover with tops of buns.

Caramel Apple
Pork Chops
4 boneless pork chops, 3/4-inch thick
2 tablespoons brown sugar
Salt and black pepper, to taste
1/8 teaspoon cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
2 tablespoons butter
2 medium red apples, cored and sliced into 1/2-inch wedges
3 tablespoons chopped pecans

Heat skillet over medium-high heat. Saute chops, 5-6 minutes, turning occasionally, until both sides are evenly browned. Remove; keep warm. In a small bowl, combine brown sugar, salt, pepper, cinnamon and nutmeg. Add butter to skillet; stir in brown sugar mixture and apples. Cover and cook for 3-4 minutes or just until apples are tender.
Remove apples with a slotted spoon and arrange on top of chops; keep warm. Continue cooking mixture in skillet, uncovered, until sauce thickens slightly. Spoon sauce over apples and chops. Sprinkle with pecans.

Photos