Published: September 17, 2008 10:29 am      

Is our perception of wine influenced by price?

The Wine Guys

There is probably someone in your social circle who frowns at thought of opening a $10 wine. Either he’s so wealthy, money is no object — or he wants to pretend he’s wealthy.

Are your perceptions of wine influenced by its price?

Researchers at the Stanford Graduate School of Business and the California Institute of Technology found that consumers they tested tricked themselves into believing an expensive wine is more enjoyable. They say expectations ignite activity in a part of the brain that reflects pleasure.

That’s just what wine producers need to hear. Put a high price on mediocre wine and it will sell better.

Alas, that’s the case today. We’ve had a lot of expensive wines that were worth half the price, in our opinion. The winemaker may have used expensive French oak and hand-picked the grapes from special vineyards, but that doesn’t guarantee the wine will be worth the price he needs to allow him to recover his expenses.

On the other hand, we’ve had some inexpensive wines here and abroad that were vastly underpriced. Just like you can’t tell a book by its cover, you can’t tell a wine by its price.

• Big House White 2006 ($10). There is a lot of zesty fruit in this wild blend of chenin blanc (35 percent), sauvignon blanc, viognier, malvasia, orange muscat, muscat and — whew — “other whites.” You can really smell the malvasia and taste the melon and herbaceous characteristics of the sauvignon blanc and chenin blanc. A great sipper with crisp acidity to match with simple fare.

• Trivento Select Torrontes 2007 ($11). We love the refreshing acidity and floral aromas of this Argentina grape variety. Simple yet possessing citrus, tropical fruit flavors.

• Herding Cats Cabernet/Shiraz 2007 ($8). This South African blend offers some simple cherry fruit with cassis and black pepper. Nothing complicated, but look at the price.

• Placido Pinot Grigio 2006 ($10). Assertive aromas of pear and apple with a touch of lime and very long finish. Very rich.

• Cat Amongst the Pigeons Grenache-Syrah 2006 ($12). When we wrote about this new Australian wine several weeks ago, it flew off the shelf. New shipments have arrived and local stores are restocked. Any of the wines are delicious, but we like this blend the best. Rich, forward berry fruit — hedonistic pleasure for immediate drinking.

• Angelini Tuttobene Toscana Rosso 2006 ($12). A blend of sangiovese, merlot and canaiolo, this simple Italian wine has round berry fruit and hints of herbs. A great match to pasta or good just to sip.

• Don Miguel Gascon Malbec Mendoza Argentina 2006 ($13). If your wondering what all the excitement is about Argentine malbecs, just try this beauty. Extremely deep purple color, with a nose of fresh berries, beef and cinnamon spice. Viscous and bold in the mouth with abundant berry and plum flavors that go on for a while. Great value. Drink with barbecued beef.

• Red Rock California Merlot ($12). Gallo calls this a “reserve,” but with a California appellation, it is an overstatement. Nonetheless, the wine has enjoyable smooth, forward fruit flavors.

• R.H. Phillips Night Harvest Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($8). This Northern Californian producer reintroduced these wines in 2006 and they still represent good values. We like Phillips’ two white wines — this sauvignon blanc and a very nice chardonnay — much better than the red wines. It has nice apple and citrus flavors.



PATZ AND HALL

Since 1988 the Patz and Hall people have been cranking out some very special pinot noirs and chardonnay from small vineyard plots. Partners James Hall, Anne Moses and Don and Heather Patz focus on making boldly flavored but balanced wines from small quantities of grapes grown in cool climate vineyard sites.

Their goal is to produce wines that are true to the terroir of each site and are representative of their varetial origins.

Recently we sampled two of their current offerings, and although pricey they are impressive. The Patz and Hall Pinot Noir Hyde Vineyard Carneros 2005 ($72) is a delight to experience with a wild cherry/gamey nose with nutmeg spice notes. The wine exhibits big wild cherry flavors in the mouth, with cinnamon and nutmeg spice notes. Although this wine would do well with duck, pork or veal dishes we liked it all by itself.

We also enjoyed the Patz and Hall Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands Pisoni Vineyard 2005 ($80). This wine screams pinot noir from the first sniff. It a exhibits a nose of cherry, berry, and vanilla. In the mouth you experience an opulent and rich wine that is very harmonious with cherry and mocha flavors. An awesome wine that is a pleasure to sip all by itself.