Not long ago we were asked to write a column about malbec, a grape variety that was demoted long ago to play a minor role in Bordeaux blends, but enjoying a renaissance in Argentina.

Five years ago we doubt anyone would have made the request — neither malbec or Argentina was on anyone’s radar screen. But the request signalled to us that this grape variety has a new following.

Argentina winemakers aren’t surprised. They have seen export sales increase dramatically, especially in the United States which dominates its market.

Why all of the recent attention? There are a number of reasons, one being that Argentina’s producers are making better wine today. Another is the consumer’s curiosity and a third is malbec’s value.

Although called as many as 400 different names, malbec was a dominant blending grape in Bordeaux until the crop was decimated by phylloxera disease in the 19th century and then a terrible frost in 1956. The grape’s vulnerability to disease and fungal rot discouraged further plantings in France’s cool and wet climate.

Grown in Argentina’s warmer and drier climate, malbec flourishes. Summers there are hot and low in humidity. Cool nights preserve the grape’s fruit and natural acidity. And the soil along in central Mendoza, along the Andes mountains, is ideal.

It’s taken this long for malbec to finally emerge as a respectable wine because Argentina was slow to take wine seriously. Then came Nicolas Catena, Argentina’s legendary wine leader. His wines rival anything in the world for complexity.

At a recent trade tasting sponsored by Bacchus Importers, viticulturist Pedro Marchevsky told us his country has been producing wine for centuries but didn’t understand quality wine until growers began research after the phylloxera devastation. He calls the changes a “revolution.”

“We once used irrigation to produce high yields. But more recently we manage water for higher quality. We had to stop plants from growing just to manage the yields.”

Malbec’s major attributes is the deep purple color and soft tannins it brings to the mix, but grown in Argentina the grape variety adds a dimension of complex flavors that range from cherries to exotic spices. We love the nutmeg, clove and anise commonly found in these wines.

Although some of the most prized wines from this region are made entirely of malbec, the grape variety is more commonly blended with a range of grapes: tempranillo, tannat, bonarda and less often with merlot and cabernet sauvignon.

Argentina’s rise in quality will only continue as it regulates itself better and winemakers turn their attention away from bulk wine — an evolution not dissimilar to other countries like Italy. Although it still appears confused about blending grapes, it is not confused about malbec’s superiority in their climate.

Here are some great malbecs we recently tasted:

Luca Malbec 2005 ($35). Blueberry and raspberry flavors dominate this classic malbec that is nicely topped with cinnamon and chocolate notes.

Mendel Unus 2004 ($45). A blend of 70 percent old-vine malbec and 30 percent cabernet savignon, this shows off cassis and black berry flavors with a hefty dose of anise and cocoa.

La Posta Cocina Blend 2006 ($15). Blended with 60 percent malbec, 20 percent bonarda and 20 percent syrah. Aromatic with big spice notes and raspberry, cherry flavors.

Crios de Susana Malbec 2005 ($15). Soft mouthfeel, medium body with red berry flavors, long finish and hints of anise and nutmeg. Great buy.

Susana Balbo Malbec 2005 ($30). Full body, solid tannins but elegant style. Black cherry and gooseberry flavors with exotic spices and floral aromas.

WINE OF THE WEEK

BenMarco Expresivo 2004 ($38). Half of the wine is malbec and the rest is made up of caernet sauvignon, merlot, bonarda and syrah. Lots of heft with big tannins, deep violet color, bitter cocoa, currants and black berry flavors.