It is hard to think of Iron Horse and not think of Joy Sterling, whose first name more aptly describes her personality than the name of her winery.

As CEO of one of California’s most reputable wine producers, Joy is a great promoter of sparkling wine — still the mainstay of this outstanding California winery.

A graduate of Yale University, she left a successful career in television to join her family’s wine business in 1985 and has been its number one saleswoman since.

Iron Horse got national recognition when its sparkling wine was chosen for President Reagan’s toast to peace at his first summit meeting with Mikhail Gorbachev in Geneva. Perhaps that it was made in “Russian River Valley” had something to do with it. Since this historical occasion, the wine has remained a staple at White House gatherings.

Of course, Iron Horse isn’t just for presidents. But it shows that American-made sparkling wine can be just as good as French champagne.

Sterling believes Iron Horse is making some of their best wines ever, thanks to a quality revolution that began in the vineyards. Using primarily estate-grown grapes, Iron Horse has engaged in what she calls “precision farming.” It’s using the best farming techniques — organic or otherwise — that apply to a specific vineyard.

The vineyards are located in the Green Valley of the Russian River Valley. The cooling fog of this region can produce 40-degree temperature swings — ideal for the chardonnay and pinot noir that go into the sparkling wine.

Iron Horse’s sparkling wines have inched up in prices over the years, so they aren’t cheap. But they are consistently top-drawer wines for any celebration — or just to break up a cold winter Sunday.

Here are this year’s sparkling wine recommendations:

• Iron Horse Classic Vintage Brut 2001 ($36). Aged four years on the yeast in the bottle, this blend of pinot noir (71 percent) and chardonnay is rich with apple, cherry notes and a creamy texture. It is every bit as good as a brut champagne.

• Iron Horse Wedding Cuvee 2003 ($35). Made primarily from pinot noir grapes, this sparkling wine has more weight and berry fruit but with refined elegance. It is Iron Horse’s flagship sparkling wine.

• Iron Horse Russian Cuvee 2000 ($32). This is basically the same as the brut but with a sweeter dosage. You can barely detect the residual sugar, but the dosage rounds off the wine and brings forward the great fruit flavors.

This would be a great match for Asian food or foie gras.

• Schramsberg J. Schram 2000 ($90). This exotic sparkling wine from another of California’s most reputable producers is a blend of chardonnay (80 percent) and pinot noir. The rich notes of creme brulee coats the palate from start to finish. Pineapple aromas, tropical fruit flavors and long finish.

• J Cuvee Non-Vintage Brut ($32). Citrus and yeast aromas give way to apple and grapefruit flavors. Good complexity for the price.

• J Vintage Brut 1999 ($50). If you want a big sparkling wine with exotic, aged notes, here it is. Toasted almond and spice aromas with apple flavors and creamy mouthfeel. Blend of chardonnay (51 percent), pinot noir and a bit of pinot meunier.

The wine was aged for four years in the bottle, disgorged in 2004 to remove the sediments, recorked with a new dosage and then aged for another six months before being released.

That’s the effort that gives the wine is richness — and price.

• J Vintage Brut Late-Disgorged 1997 ($100). OK, it’s expensive. But how often can you taste a 1997 sparkling wine? The wine was aged six years in the bottle, disgorged and aged another year before release. It has great balance, biscuit aromas, full citrus flavors with a hint of spice and a creamy texture.

• Argyle Brut 2002 ($25). This reputable Oregon producer makes some of the best sparkling wines in the Northwest. For a special treat, try the rosé brut. But this one is just as special with delicate pear, citrus and mineral notes. Made mostly from chardonnay grapes.



WINE OF THE WEEK

• Schramsberg Mirabelle Brut Rosé ($24). This is one of the best buys in the non-vintage rosé market. It has lots of ripe cherry fruit flavors and good toast. Made from 53 percent pinot noir and 47 percent chardonnay.