Cotes du Rhone is one of the most misunderstood names in wine.

Although it is a name often attached to the entire Rhone Valley, it is more commonly known as a simple wine distinct from the more complex wines of the northern Rhone Valley.

We find ourselves trying more and more Cotes du Rhones because of their value — they are among the most underpriced wines in France. Unfortunately, you never know what you will get: a complex wine that can be aged or a limp wine with raging acidity and little fruit.

An appellation since 1937, Cotes du Rhone is most often made in southern Rhone. However, wine producers often use the name to identify wines that don't meet the standards required to use a label identifying a top-level appellation, like Hermitage or Chateauneuf du Pape.

Using this broad description allows producers great flexibility, but not a lot of incentive to produce outstanding wines. Northern producers, like Guigal, use syrah while most of the producers in southern Rhone depend on grenache, carignane, cinsault and mourvedre. There is very little white wine made in this region.

About 90 percent of the wine from southern Rhone Valley is labeled Cotes du Rhone. The more respected wines with higher standards are called Cotes du Rhone Villages, a designation that allows the producer to attach one of 16 villages to the label. The more popular of these include Rasteau, Cairanne and Seguret. We've found these wines to be more profound, age-worthy and still reasonably priced.

These are some terrific wines that can be enjoyed now or cellared for just a few years. Producers often vary the blend depending on the success of the harvest, so the wine can vary from year to year. The 2003 wines were outstanding, but current vintages offer a good selection. These wines are generally full-bodied enough to serve with meat and serious pasta dishes.

Chateau Beaucastel Coudoulet de Beaucastel 2005 ($30). Made by the Perrin family - one of the most respected producers in the Rhone Valley - Coudoulet comes from grapes grown just outside of the Chateauneuf du Pape appellation, so it's considered a generic Cotes du Rhone. The white (blanc) is an aromatic and complex wine made from marsanne, viognier, bourboulence and clairette grapes. We like the red blend of grenache, mourvedre, syrah and cinsault - oodles of black cherries, black berries and licorice.

• M. Chapoutier Belleruche 2005 ($12). A blend of grenache (80 percent) and syrah, this is a well-structured wine with fine tannins, cherry notes and hints of spice.

• Domaine Charvin Cotes du Rhone Le Pontet 2004 ($23). Grenache, mourvedre and syrah are the grapes of choice for this well-respected producer. Lots of cherry and black berry flavors with great structure and body - one of our favorites.

• Domaine de Font de Michelle La Font du Vent Notre Passion 2004 ($15). The Gonnet family is very well respected in the Rhone Valley and this softly textured wine is why. Their passion, the Cotes du Rhone is an even blend of grenache and syrah. Lots of forward cherry, blackberry flavors with a hint of black pepper and currants. What a great value.

• Domaine Santa Duc Les Quatres Terres Cotes du Rhone 2004 ($15). We are fond of Santa Duc's gigondas, but this Cotes du Rhone speaks terroir. More complex than many Cotes du Rhone, it has gamey black berry and strawberry flavors, ripe fruit aromas, and an earthy character. Long, rich finish. It shows well now but will easily age of another 5 years.

• Domaine Santa Duc Rasteau Cotes du Rhone 2003 ($18). A big, full-bodied Cotes du Rhone, this is one that will benefit from aging. Blended with grenache (80 percent), syrah and mourvedre, it enjoys a long fermentation. Unfiltered, it has big tannins, blackberry fruit and spice.

• Domaine Santa Duc Vielles Vignes ($13). Light, ripe berry flavors and just a pleasant drink.

• Guigal Cotes du Rhone 2005 ($12). We used to buy this by the case when it was $8 a bottle in the 1980s. Still a great buy, it has ripe, sweet berry fruit, pepper and a soft mouthfeel.

• Paul Jaboulet Cotes du Rhone Villages 2004 ($15). Sweet cherry and black berry fruit dominate this simple and juicy Cotes du Rhone.

• Pierre Usseglio Cotes du Rhone 2005 ($15). Made mostly from grenache grapes, this has good complexity for the price. Spicy aromas followed by generous dark berry fruit and pepper.

• Domaine du Bois de Saint Jean Cotes du Rhone 2005 ($16). Very juicy, ripe blackberry fruit and long finish.

• Domaine Grand Veneur Reserve Cotes du Rhone 2005 ($15). Medium body with sweet kirsch notes, smooth texture and good spice. An easy drink, it's meant for early consumption but could age for a few years. This producer also makes a Cotes du Rhone Villages that at $18 a bottle is a steal - if you can find it.



WINE OF THE WEEK

• Veramonte Reserva Pinot Noir 2005 ($15). When we first saw this new release from Chile, we wondered why in heavens the well-known producer would be making pinot noir in this part of the world. Then we saw that Paul Hobbs, one of the most respected winemakers in California, was a consulting winemaker. No wonder the wine is so good. Bright cherry and strawberry flavors, good tannins to make it a match for food.