What is it about chianti that makes you smile? Maybe it is the wine’s association with comfort peasant food that warms the spirits in these cold winter days. Or maybe it is the simple, quaffable fruit that doesn’t demand an explanation or some esoteric wine description.

Chianti can be complex, but it’s the uncomplicated version that makes this region a consistent value year after year. With emerging wine growing regions flooding the market with new labels, it is easy to forget about the Italy’s enduring wine.

We won’t let that happen. Here are a few new releases:

• Angelini San Leonino Chianti Classico 2006 ($20). Simple aromas, full-bodied with big tannins and dry cherry fruit flavors. Nice mineral note to the taste.

• Angelini San Leonino Chianti Classico Riserva 2003 ($36). The extra age on this chianti give it a lot more seasoning and depth. There are nice rustic berry flavors to this full-bodied wine with a lingering finish that begs for more.

• Da Vinci Chianti 2006 ($16). This prolific wine popular in many restaurants continues to impress us with its fruit forward value. Lots of cherry flavors and a soft mouthfeel, thanks in part to the 10 percent merlot added to the sangiovese.

• Valiano Chianti Classico Poggio Teo 2004. Sporting a very sophisticated label, this luscious single-vineyard chianti is made from hand-selected sangiovese grapes grown in ancient soil. Black berry and raspberry fruit and good acidity.

• Piccini Chianti Classico Riserva 2005. Simple but well-balanced, this reserve chianti has dark cherry flavors with hints of licorice and pepper.

• Piccini Chianti Superiore DOCG 2006 ($13). Here’s a moderately priced chianti that has good, quaffable fruit. A blend of sangiovese (80 percent), cabernet sauvignon and merlot, it is one of the few to use the superiore designation first introduced in 1996. It’s a step up from the regular DOCG chianti. Ripe plum, black cherry flavors with excellent balance.



CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE

Chateau Ste. Michelle continues to grow as a powerhouse producer in this country’s northwest wine growing region. Based in Woodinville, Wash., it produces consistently reliable wines at affordable prices that consumers will enjoy. No matter what the grape variety, we are impressed with the balance and overall quality of both the red and white wines. Consumers would be wise to check these out.

• Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Riesling 2007 ($12). Riesling established the producer’s label nearly 40 years ago, so not surprisingly the wine continues to excel today. Off-dry, it has round passion and peach fruit with a nice mineral note.

• Chateau Ste. Michelle Cold Creek Vineyard Riesling 2007 ($14). More elegant with crisp acidity, this riesling has rich tropical fruit and peach flavors.

• Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells Merlot 2004 ($18). With a hot growing season and long harvest, winemaker Bob Bertheau produced a jammy merlot that soothes the palate. Black cherry and a hint of spice.

• Chateau Ste. Michelle Ethos Merlot 2005 ($38). Generous cherry fruit flavors with a touch of vanilla. Fine tannins and round fruit. About 16 percent of the wine is composed of cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot and malbec.



OTHER WINES

• Matanzas Creek Bennett Valley Merlot 2005 ($36). This venerable Sonoma County producer continues to make outstanding merlot and this one won’t let you down. The aromas range from thyme to clove and the concentrated flavors include blackberry, cherry and quince. Soft and approachable, it’s a good wine for stews and wild game.

• Quivira Syrah 2006 ($28). Everything we taste from this California winery seems to knock our socks off. We love the texture and the depth of fruit in this full-throttle syrah with floral, cedar notes, good substance, fine tannins and dark berry flavors.

• Lassegue Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2004 ($50). A joint venture of Jess Jackson and Pierre Seillan (and their wives), this bordeaux is a blend of merlot (60 percent), cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon. Big cherry and cassis flavors with hints of truffles and dark chocolate. Firm tannins and excellent structure give it cellar potential.

• Mirassou Winery California Pinot Grigio 2007 ($12). Mirassou is off to a good start with its first pinot grigio — refreshing citrus and peach flavors with a touch of spice and good acidity. Good value.

• Bodega Septima Gran Reserva 2005 ($25). This Argentina wine is a bold blend of malbec (55 percent), cabernet sauvignon and tannat. The vineyards — high altitude in the shadows of the Andes Mountains — give a firmness to this complex, tannic wine with mocha, black berry and strawberry flavors.

• Dry Creek Vineyards Estate Fume Blanc DCV3 2006 ($25). Dry Creek has built a reputation on its excellent sauvignon blancs. Made in several versions, they are classic and consistent in varietal flavors. The DCV3 estate vineyard produces excellent fruit. Grassy and citrus aromas are followed by pineapple and mineral flavors. In contrast, the 2006 Dry Creek Taylor’s Vineyard Musque sauvignon blanc ($25) sports honeysuckle, melon and spice notes because of the musque clone it uses.