Big times in Beantown

Birding with Jerry Hall

By Jerry Hall

On my recent trip to Iceland, I faced a daunting eight-hour layover at Boston’s Logan Airport, arriving at 1:38 p.m. via United and departing at 9:30 p.m. on Icelandair. I recalled that a similar long wait in Los Angeles on the way to Australia had been eased by taking a most enjoyable city tour. I still remember Muscle Beach and the Hollywood sign.

So I arranged for a “Beantown Trolley” Boston tour which, for $59 per person, included seeing such highlights as the Commons, Independence Hall, Fenway Park and the commercial heart of the city. Very nice.

Also very nice was the included dinner which wrapped up the tour. It was at Union Oyster House, America’s oldest restaurant. Consider four factoids about this National Historic Landmark:

1. It is housed in the earliest standing brick building in Boston, being first used for a fancy dress goods business in 1742. For more than 260 years, it has stood sturdily on Union Street as a major local landmark.

2. The now world-renowned semi-circular oyster bar was installed in 1826 and Daniel Webster was a constant customer, usually eating at least 36 oysters at a sitting.

3. In 1796, the future king of France, Louis Philippe, lived on the second floor. Exiled from his country, he earned his living by teaching French to many of Boston’s fashionable young ladies.

4. The tooth pick was first used in the U.S. at the Union Oyster House.

On our visit, the service was great and my clam chowder, cornbread, broiled scrod and veggies were first-rate. The apple cobbler was also good.

One of our party, fast-thinking Paloma Broun of Dripping Springs, asked for the chowder recipe. It was cheerfully provided and, as a public service, I present it to you:



Union Oyster House

Clam Chowder

• 2 oz. salt pork • 2 lbs. fresh (or frozen) clams, diced

• 1 small onion, diced • 1 qt. clam juice

• ½ cup butter • 1 lb. potatoes, diced

• ¼ cup flour • 2 cups Half & Half, warmed

• 2 ribs of celery, minced • Salt, pepper, Tabasco,

• Worcestershire, to taste



Bring potatoes and clam juice to a boil; cook until potatoes are done. Add clams (along with any surplus juice from same); cook until done. Set aside. Note: Do not overcook or clams will be tough.

Skin pork; dice and sauté in pan; cook until rendered. Add onions; cook until glassy. Add butter, melt and cook slightly. Add flour. If mixture is too loose, add a little more flour. Cook until slightly colored. Bring clams, juice and potatoes back to a boil. Add cooked roux. Thicken and bring to a rolling boil and stir. Add previously heated Half & Half to desired consistency. Season to taste.

Serve with oyster or pilot crackers. Makes two quarts.



If you plan to be in Boston anytime soon, visit www.brushhilltours.com or call (781) 986-6100 to arrange a city tour. And if you’re hungry, by all means drop by the Union Oyster House, 41 Union Street; telephone (617) 227-2750.

They have Samuel Adams beer on draft and it’s easy to see why Daniel Webster was a constant customer.

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