San Marcos Record, San Marcos, TX

Features

September 8, 2010

Sense of Smell: The kitchen's time machine

There’s an institutional cleaning product that my nose encounters every now and then, usually in a restaurant, that zaps me back in time almost as fast as the Flux Capacitor-Equipped Delorean from the Back to the Future films.

Rather than the 50s, I end up in the 80s and specifically I find myself 16 years old mopping the floors at Chad’s Crispy Chicken, where I worked my first official job. I can feel the heat trapped against my body by my polyester brown and orange shirt and feel my arm muscles swish the water-heavy mop back and forth against the tiled floor.

You, no doubt, have similar olfactory-induced journeys, hopefully to more pleasant and interesting destinations than my $3.35-an-hour job. Maybe a certain perfume or cologne brings on the flush of first love or the whiff of honeysuckle takes you back to the backyard of your youth.



The sense of smell is well documented by researchers as being more closely tied to memory and emotion than any of our other senses, and for many of us the aromas of certain foods are what transports us or calls up certain feelings.

That’s why some Realtors bake chocolate chip cookies during their open houses: It elicits strong reactions from many buyers.

I recently took a poll among some of my friends about which kitchen aromas they connect with most strongly, and there seemed to be an equal number who love the sweet stuff like cakes and brownies and those who get nostalgic about the more savory scents like roast chicken and garlic.

As much as I love the smell and taste of baked goods; the aroma of Italian food, heavy with garlic, onions and tomatoes is hard for me to resist. These smells are part of what puts the “comfort” in these comfort foods.

I made Chicken Cacciatore this week and it smelled just as good as it tasted. We added a green salad and some hot buttered garlic bread and had a feast for all the senses.

I’m not sure what kitchen smells transport you but if you want to try this Italian chicken dish you just might create some new memories for your family.



Chicken Cacciatore

• 3 tablespoons olive oil

• 2 bone-in chicken breasts, cut in half

• 4 chicken legs

• 2 teaspoons kosher salt

• 1 teaspoon cracked black pepper

• 1 large red bell pepper, roughly chopped

• 1 onion, roughly chopped

• 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

• 1 tablespoon tomato paste

• 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

• 3/4 cup dry white wine

• 1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes

• 3/4 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth

• 3 tablespoons drained capers

• 1-1/2 teaspoons dried oregano leaves

• Handful of fresh basil leaves, roughly chopped



Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a large Dutch oven, heat olive oil over medium-high heat on the stovetop.

Season the chicken pieces with the salt and pepper. Add the chicken pieces to the pot (you may have to do this in two batches so you don’t over-crowd the pot) and sauté on all sides until brown, about five minutes per side.

Transfer the chicken to a plate and set aside. Add the bell pepper, onion, and garlic to the same pat season with additional salt and pepper and sauté over until the onion is tender, about five minutes.

Add the tomato paste, stirring for about 30 seconds then the flour, stirring another 30 seconds or so.

Add the wine and use it to deglaze the pan, using a wooden spoon to scrap up any bits on the bottom. Add crushed tomatoes, capers, and oregano then return the chicken pieces to the pot, along with any accumulated juices.

Bring the sauce to a simmer. Place lid on pot and move to the oven for about 30 minute. When ready to serve, stir in the chopped basil. This can be served over pasta, or my favorite, some savory grits with Parmesan cheese. This will serve about four with each guest getting a leg and a breast half.



Scott Hutcheson writes for CNHI News Service, which distributes his column. He can be reached at www.scotthutcheson.com.

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