Every pinot noir column should start with an apology.

Prices for these wines are out of the range of most consumers, but $50 is about what it takes to get a full-body pinot noir from the West Coast. That's a far cry from the time when only the wines from Burgundy commanded those kind of prices.

Blame it on price and demand. As the grape has become more popular, vineyard owners have been able to increase the price of their fruit or sell their land. Like in Burgundy, producers have been making small lots of pinot noir from vineyards whose fruit was often used in blends. Small means expensive.

Still, a good pinot noir at this time of the year is very enjoyable. It is the wine we pour with grilled salmon, lamb, hamburgers, cold pasta and even chicken. There are plenty of excellent pinot noirs coming out of the Willamette Valley in Oregon and in Monterey and Russian River Valley in California. Here are a bunch of pinot noirs we recently tasted from the West Coast and even France:

• MacMurray Ranch Central Coast Pinot Noir 2007 ($23). We have reached for this wine in restaurants more times than we can remember. It is a consistently good value. Simple in style and with a medium body it sports cola and sweet cherry flavors.

• J Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2006 ($38). Known most for its sparkling wine, J also produces an excellent pinot noir using grapes from the prized Russian River Valley. Broad in the palate, it has the earthy, mushroom character often found in burgundy. Red berry flavors and a generous dollop of spice.

• WillaKenzie Estate Cuvee Pinot Noir 2007 ($26). This reasonably priced pinot from the Willamette Valley is a nice introduction to what Oregon has to offer. It is also an introduction to the producer's outstanding big brother - the Pierre Leon single-vineyard pinot noir ($43). We liked the cuvee for its unabashed cherry and blueberry fruit flavors and and a touch of spice. The Pierre Leon is more complex with earthy notes and sweet strawberry and plum notes. It has a long finish and good acidity.

• Fess Parker Clone 115 Pinot Noir 2007 ($55). This producer has released three 2007 pinot noirs that are all homeruns. Ample in fruit, they are dense, enjoyable wines by themselves or with a variety of food. We liked the Clone 115 from Santa Rita Hills for its bold, unique flavor profile. Black cherry and cranberry notes abound. It takes a couple of hours of decanting to show off its best qualities. For a more approachable version try the Fess Parker Ashley's Pinot Noir ($50). Lots of blackcherry and raspberry notes with hints of cinnamon and mineral. Very nice pinot noirs from a respectable, consistent producer.

• Ponzi Vineyards Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2007 ($35). We like all of the pinot noirs from this top-drawer Oregon producer. But this is a good value at $35. Cherry and floral aromas, cedar and cherry flavors with a hint of anise.

• Goldeneye Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 2006 ($55). We have always loved this special wine. A lot of attention is paid to the vineyards to produce intense, elegant fruit with ripe cherry and blueberry notes with a touch of spice and a long finish.

• Migration Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 2007 ($35). Like the Goldeneye, Migration is a product of Duckhorn - hence the names - and not surprisingly is loaded with quality. Bright fruit flavors characteristic of the varietal and smooth mouthfeel.

• Byron Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir 2007 ($26). We loved this smooth, spicy pinot noir with clean plum and cherry flavors and a toasty finish.

• Chalone Vineyard Monterey County Pinot Noir 2006 ($20). Good cherry flavors with a strong mineral component and oak spices.

• Artesa Carneros Pinot Noir 2006 ($25). Medium body, bright raspberry and cherry flavors with spice and smoke. Very nice wine for the price. Artesa makes a reserve pinot noir ($38) that it more serious and intense and still reasonably priced for what it delivers.

• Kali Hart Pinot Noir 2007 ($19). From the makers of Talbott chardonnay come his reasonably priced pinot noir that shows good expression of fruit, blueberry aromas and ripe cherry flavors with a dash of spice.

• Jacuzzi Sonoma County Pinot Noir 2007 ($20). Simple strawberry fruit, medium body and floral aromas.

• Paraiso Vineyards St. Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir 2007 ($25). The third vintage of pinot noir from this estate in the rugged Monterey mountains, the 2007 pinot has gobs of rich cherry and plum fruit with a hint of black pepper.

• Pali Inman Olivet Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007 ($50). Founded just four years ago by a group of wine-loving friends, Pali makes 10 vineyard-designated pinots in small lots and uses grapes from all over California and Oregon. We liked this one from the Russian River Valley. Smooth in texture, it has fresh raspberry and strawberry fruit and a long finish.