San Marcos Record, San Marcos, TX

Features

July 28, 2010

Reality Bities

‘Top Chef’ competition show leaves viewers hungry for more

My name is Jeff Walker, and I watch reality TV.

Well, not quite all of it. Sure, I at least know who the Kardashians are, and I’ve kept up with my share of MTV’s the Real World seasons over the years. And from time to time, I’m at least a little curious to see who got voted off of “So You Think You Can Dance” the previous night.



But “The Bachelor”? Nothing to love there. “Jersey Shore” makes me feel grimy, “The Hills” makes me feel sad for that bunch of pseudo-wanna be celebrities; and I think Kate Gosselin should take a hike somewhere far away from any sort of TV cameras.

But there’s one show I never miss — one show that leaves me hungry and motivated to get into the kitchen and create something magnificent. That show is Bravo TV’s “Top Chef.”

“Top Chef” has a lot going in its favor. First and foremost, the show sincerely seems to be about the food — and food at a very high level. The uber-talented contestants routinely organize dishes on the fly that are intriguing and virtually alien to the average home cook. Sous-vide duck, mussels with Ras el Hanout, raw mushroom salad with yuzu emulsion? Not exactly what Rachel Ray had boilingon the stove yesterday afternoon on the Food Network.

I’m not going out tomorrow to try and hunt down Yuzu, which happens to be a small Japanese grapefruit, but the exposure to new items inspires and challenges me in the kitchen. The contestants’ finished products laid before the judges — even the losing dishes — are a true spectacle for just an average guy who likes food.

They’re inspiration to go out and really cook something — not just feed your family.

Where there are chefs, there are gargantuan egos, and clashing personalities have played a role in all seen seasons. But they don’t seem to be driving forces for the producers looking for unnecessary drama. In other words, the show at least seems a real competition based on real talent and not a reality show popularity contest.

Then there’s the judges and the guest judges.

Some of my favorite chefs — Eric Ripert,  Daniel Boulud, Wiley Dufresne and my favorite, Fort Worth’s own Tim Love — have appeared on the show to judge food. The stakes are obviously high when some of America’s best are present. Anthony Bourdain, food critic, author of “Kitchen Confidential”  and host of Travel Channel’s “No Reservations,” has even showed up on  and blogged about the show.

“There are very talented chefs competing. You are judged on the merits of the food,” Bourdain has been quoted as saying in his support of “Top Chef.”

Now that’s the kind of reality entertainment I can actually stomach.

Crab Chowder with

Lemongrass, Ginger,

Cardamom and Coconut Milk

recipe by Tamesha Warren, Season 7

• 4 blue crabs, cut in half

• 1 can coconut milk

• 1 pint cream

• 3 stalks lemongrass, smashed and cut into 1” pieces

• 1 knob ginger, thinly sliced

• 1 onion, diced

• 3 stalks celery, large diced

• 3 carrots, peeled and large diced

• 1 cinnamon stick

• 3 cardamom pods

• 1 tsp black pepper

• Fresh cilantro and celery leaves, picked

• Salt, cayenne, and lemon juice, to taste



Sear crabs in a pot. Add vegetables and spices with coconut milk and cream. Simmer for 30 minutes.

Pick meat from the crabs and add back in. Season with salt, cayenne, and lemon juice to taste.



Seared Colorado

Sirloin, Chanterelle and Ruby Chard

recipe by Casey Thompson, Season 3

• 1 pound sirloin, cleaned

• Salt and pepper

• 1/2 cup olive oil

• 1 knob ginger

• 2 whole cloves

• 1 anise seed

• 3 cups red wine

• 1 cup veal glace

• 1/2 cup butter cubed

• 2 shallots, minced

• 2 tablespoons garlic, minced

• 1/2 pound chanterelle mushrooms, cleaned

• 2 tablespoons ginger

• 2 pound ruby chard, cleaned, cut into julienned ribbons

• 1 pound fingerling potatoes, cleaned, halved

• 2 bunches parsley



Season whole sirloin heavily with salt and pepper. In a cast iron skillet, add two tablespoons olive oil. Sear sirloin on both sides until crust forms. Place whole pan into 400 degree oven; roast fifteen minutes. Remove from oven and allow to rest ten minutes before slicing.

In a small sauce pan, add knob of ginger, garlic cloves, anise seed and red wine. Simmer gently as it reduces. When reduce by half, add veal glace and strain. Season sauce with salt and mount sauce with butter, one tablespoon at a time (reserve three tablespoons for later use).

In a sauté pan over low to medium heat, heat one tablespoon olive oil. Add one tablespoon minced shallots, one tablespoon garlic and one tablespoon butter. Gently sauté chantrelles. Season with salt and fresh pepper. Set aside.

In another sauté pan, heat two tablespoons olive oil. Add remaining garlic, shallots and two tablespoons ginger. Add chard and sauté until wilted. Season with salt and pepper. Strain and mix together with chantrelles.

In a sauté pan over low-medium heat, add remaining olive oil and one tablespoon butter. Add potatoes flesh side down. Cook until browned. Season with salt and pepper. Finish potatoes in the oven until just tender. When tender, add last tablespoon butter to potatoes; finish with parsley.



TO PLATE:

Make a bed of chard and chantrelle mix. Place a slice of sirloin on top. Sauce the meat; fan the potatoes.

 

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