Into the Clouds

April 20, 2023

Never in a million years did I think birds could be this loud. That was my thought as the raucous squawks of the Andean-Cock-of-The-Rock — or Gallo de Los Rocas—permeated the moist, humid stretch of forest. From a gazebo we watched, cameras rolling, as the males showcased their machismo and aggression. Guests counted 19 that afternoon. The bizarre birds, looking like a cross between a Sesame Street character and some weird koi carp, were males about 12 to 14 inches long. They were competing for the affections of a single female, who seemed to shy away while all this was going on.

As a child, I’d read about these birds in children’s wildlife Atlas books. Yet, I never dreamed that I’d have the opportunity to see one, let alone 20. Those wishing to see Cock-of-The-Rock in the wild need look no further than in the cloud forests of Colombia, Ecuador, Peru or Bolivia. They are also found in Venezuela, but the ongoing political and humanitarian crisis in that country means this is not a viable option... For now.

However, one doesn’t simply find Andean-Cock-of-The-Rock by walking into any stretch of cloud forest and hoping for the best. The most effective way to encounter them is by finding a Lek, or mating area, where they congregate on a consistent basis. One can most certainly find them outside these areas, and I have but encounters here will likely be brief. The birds are faster than they look and startle easily. Local guides can find Leks and will take visitors on tours that will likely range in price from $25 to $50, depending on the area. The reason why I recommend Jardin, a vibrant, old-style town that is an easy — and cheap — bus or shared-van ride from Medellin is that you don’t need a tour to see them. That’s right; you don’t need a tour to see these birds. All you have to do is book an accommodation, which will be easy. For a town that is certainly not on the itinerary for most travelers to Colombia, Jardin has many Airbnbs and hostels available. It is not hard to find a private room with a shared kitchen on Airbnb for as little as $10 a night.

Assuming you are staying in the town center, all you will have to do is walk about ten minutes to Jardin’s Cock-of-The-Rock Lek. It is open from 3 to 5:30 p.m., which is when the birds are most active. There is a small entrance fee of 12,000 Colombian Pesos; about $3. A great value indeed for having such easy access to these unique and extraordinary birds. But they are not alone at the Lek. Looking closely, one can reasonably expect between 20 and 30 bird species in a two- to threehour period. To attract some, locals place bananas in a fruit feeder to offer as bait. These attract spectacular and colorful tanager species, in addition to the stunning Green and Black-Chested Jays. Colombian Chachalaca, a ground-dwelling bird slightly larger than the average chicken, also make their presence felt at these feeders. Don’t forget to look for the bizarre Andean Motmot, with its long, racquet-shaped tail.

The Lek area also contains feeders that attract several hummingbird species, including the odd and beguiling Green Hermit, with its long, curved bill. In the trees above, you can also find bats and — if you are fortunate — Tropical Screech Owls.

But what about the rest of the day? Well, no problem. Before the Lek opens, there’s plenty of other trails in and around the surrounding cloud forest where you can “bird until you drop” on your own, without paying a penny — or peso — to do so. Regarding safety, have no worries. Jardin is very quiet, peaceful and ideal for solo exploration.

Here, you will find some of the same species, as well as others that do not turn up in the Lek such as Bronze-winged parrots, Barred Antshrike, Red-bellied Grackles and Guira Tanagers. The list goes on and on.

Colombia is one of the most biodiverse countries in the world. For incredible — and highly accessible — opportunities to experience nature in its purest form, you need look no further than Jardin. The trip was so impressive that I returned to visit again later that same year. However, while you need look no further than Jardin, it may well look further for you.

That will be the focus of my next article, as we explore the adjacent region of Riosucio, so stay tuned.

Justin Harris is a teacher, world traveler, wildlife photographer, nature enthusiast and citizen-scientist.

This article is part two in a three-part series about travel in Colombia.