The Life of Riley’s

Driving up to Riley’s Tavern is like hanging a left into history. The neighborhood bar in Hunter will celebrate its 90th anniversary on Sept. 30, and pulling into the shade-dappled parking lot, it’s easy to imagine what life might have been like nearly a century ago.

A thin layer of dust coats the tavern’s external walls, kicked into the air by a loud and growly stream of 18-wheelers hauling gravel from nearby concrete plants. The faded green paint calls to mind old diners and dance halls, the kinds of places where our grandparents would go on dates.

Crunching across the driveway, visitors first encounter the historical marker proclaiming Riley’s as the oldest business in Hunter.

Formerly the Galloway Saloon circa 1895, Riley’s Tavern was the first bar in Texas to legally sell alcohol after the repeal of prohibition in 1933, a fact that present owner Joel Hofmann attributes to a little bit of good fortune.

“I think Riley just lucked out on that deal,” Hofmann said. “He was only 17.

He had his uncle drive him. I’m sure his uncle was the guy who signed the paper, but they came back and opened later that day, or the next day. I don’t know how long it took to get to Austin in a Model-T, but it probably took the entire day.”

In a stark contrast to its rustic exterior, the inside of Riley’s feels cool and bright. Band stickers and posters decoupage the paneled walls, some of them dating back more than a half a century. The air smells buttery — popcorn peppered with Tabasco, every bit as tasty as it sounds — mingled with a faint whiff of cigarette smoke and good local beer.

The airy quality inside is by Hofmann’s design, one of the few changes he made when he purchased Riley’s in 2004.

“When I bought it, Donna had the windows covered up with posters so it would be dark in here,” Hofmann said. “The first thing I did was come in, take all of it down and wash the windows so that it would have a nice open, airy feeling to it.”

It works. Between the dust-glazed windows and the neon beer signs, Riley’s basks in a nostalgic honey- glow. It’s simple to understand how the bar is always packed with regulars every evening of the week, and that’s before we even start the conversation about the music.

Riley’s has two stages for live music: one indoor, one outdoor. The indoor stage is another Hofmann addition he made to expand the main bar area in 2006. The outdoor stage boasts a couple of big, broad legacy oaks, providing ample shade and natural acoustics. It’s a great place for a low-key relaxing night of dancing, music and drinks. Not only is it a favorite best-kept-secret kind of place for locals, it’s also a regular destination for musicians from Texas and the US.

“There’s a lot of not just local bands that have made this a regular spot, but also Texas bands, too,” Hofmann said. “We have a lot of folks who come through once or twice a year from all over the country.”

For example, earlier this year, Hank Williams IV and the Strange Band played, and Island Texas headlined Riley’s annual luau in September. In between, Riley’s continually brings quality bands to its two stages, featuring locals like Mark Jungers and The Homebodies.

When Riley first opened the tavern’s doors in 1933, Hunter was still a bedroom town a fair distance from both San Marcos and New Braunfels. Over the years, both cities have swelled toward Hunter, but they have yet to swallow it up.

“One thing that’s helped — that keeps helping — is that the two towns are growing together,” Hofmann said. “And these subdivisions are popping up everywhere, even that big RV Park down by the highway, all that brings in more people.”

More visitors for Riley’s is good on the money side of things, and there are always a number of tourists who stop in to see the first bar open after prohibition. Even still, Riley’s manages to maintain its down-to-earth charms, which these days is not so easy a feat.

In the Amazon best-selling book, “Texas Dives: Enduring Neighborhood Bars of the Lone Star State,” author Anthony Head gives an astute description of Riley’s: “It’s a cool place that doesn’t pretend to be anything special, which is why it’s cool.”

Hofmann’s hope is to run a bar worthy of its 90-year legacy, one that is as welcoming as it is safe.

“We don’t want to be cliquish,” Hofmann said. “We don’t want it to feel like it’s a club. A lot of places can feel that way. During the day, especially on the weekend, you can bring your kids here. With the luau or the car show, everybody can show up. That’s what we want.”

Riley’s 90 Years of Service and Spirits will start with Song Swaps at 2 p.m. on Saturday, Sept. 30. The event will feature live music from familiar locals, door prizes, free cake and a barbecue food truck.

At 6 p.m., the Joel Hofmann Band will take the stage with a 90-minute set, followed by Ben Morris and the Great American Boxcar Chorus and The John Evans Band, with a $10 cover charge for all three bands. For information, and to learn more about Riley’s check out the website at rileystavern.com.